For your typical American tourist, the name Tzintzuntzan isn't exactly up there with Cancún. But it's an important place in the history of Mexico. Founded in the 13th Century by the indigenous Purépecha people, Tzintzuntzan became the seat of the Tarascan State, a region roughly equivalent to present-day Michoacán.

In 1522, a mere 30 years after Columbus landed in the West Indies, the Spanish reached Tzintzuntzan. Its chief, Tangáxuan II submitted to Spanish rule. A bad move. The odious Nuño de Guzmán arrived in 1529, and tried to induce Tangáxuan to tell him where all the supposed gold was by burning him alive. I don't know if that worked, but Guzmán so badly damaged Spanish relations with natives that he was recalled to Spain and replaced by Vasco de Quiroga, a relatively nice guy for a conquistador.

What's left of the the Purépechan site is today called Las Yácatas. I gave the ruins a brief look and was profoundly disappointed by the rampant reconstruction which, it seems to me, has turned the archeological site into Disney World.

Photo: Hajor, Mar.2005

The place looks like an Aztec-inspired Holiday Inn. All it needs is some animatronic Purépechans to thoroughly trash its authenticity. Or maybe one of those pathetic light shows like they've inflicted on Chichén Itzá.

I suspect that most of what we see today of Las Yácatas is modern construction, because it was razed by the Spanish to obtain building stones for the Monastery of Santa Ana and other structures. The Catholic churches are still standing, so they probably had to buy new stones at Rocks 'R' Us.

The grounds of the monastery have been maintained through the centuries and are today, a quiet, contemplative space.

They're also remarkably litter-free, perhaps because of the threat carried in this sign, that those who throw trash here will be rigorously fined. Rigorously. Whoever wrote that gets top marks, if you ask me.

Among the many achievements attributed to Vasco de Quiroga was the planting of the first olive trees in the Americas. Well, he didn't exactly plant them; he had them planted, I'm sure. Probably by some Purépechan converts who'd managed to survive the smallpox epidemic.

Those trees, now more than 450 years old are still growing in the grounds of the Monastery of Santa Ana.

This massive specimen is one of perhaps a score of trees. They all show the ravages of great age, but at the same time look as if they'll continue to grow indefinitely.

The restorers have treated the Monastery of Santa Ana more gently than Las Yácatas. I was captivated by this wonderful old building, held in a state of arrested decay. I like the plants sprouting from the eroded wall.

I'm more dubious about the murals undergoing restoration under this arch, where a community meal is in progress.

We spent only a few hours in Tzintzuntzan. It deserves more time, maybe more than a day. What's so nice about living in central Mexico is that it'll be easy to return.