Trouble in Oaxaca City
Ongoing unrest in the city over teachers' wages and other grievances has continued to simmer after demonstrators took over the city center last summer, shutting down tourism and all other businesses. Ultimately the Army went in and re-took control of the centro historico, establishing a semblance of quiet and normalcy.
Protesters, having successfully shut down last year's Guelaguetza, decided to shut it down again this year. The result was a clash between hundreds of police and demonstrators.
Photo: Yahoo News
We could see it coming. Protest leaders with bullhorns were stirring up crowds. Police were massing at the fair site.
The political graffiti wars that have defaced so much of the downtown heated up over the weekend. A lot of spray paint was applied to walls using stencils; here of a female guerilla with a timorous expression on her face and a rifle in her hand. Reminds me of Patty Hearst.
The red caption reads, "Hooray for the peoples' Guelaguetza. Boycott the commercial Guelaguetza;" this in reference to one group's attempt to divert attendance from the official function.
But this really isn't about the craft fair. It's about a whole lot of angry people who feel they are being exploited and abused by the power elite. Many anti-government groups maintain a presence on the zócalo, registering their protests and disseminating their views.
The banners cite grievances and assert rebellion, and power to the people. One grievance is the arrest of fifty or so who were suspected of leading protests. These were transported to a prison in the state of Nayerit where visits by friends and attorneys would be difficult. Shades of Berkeley in the '60s.
On Friday, a party was held at the daily organic market where those arrested, now freed, were treated to lunch and music.
The unifying factor in the dissent is intense hatred for the Governor of the State of Oaxaca, Ulises Ruiz. Protesters accuse him of strong-arm tactics against political opponents and gross corruption. They hold him responsible for the shooting deaths last year of some demonstrators by masked gunmen. I talked with many people in Oaxaca, and all despised him.
Some of the protest messages are ugly. This one urges people to "kill the dog," referring to Ruiz.
The unrest has provided a toehold for communists. Largely discredited in almost the entire world, they maintain a highly visible presence here.
These are ignorant adherents to communist principles; witness the banner with the likeness of Joseph Stalin.
They're obviously unaware or uncaring that Stalin was not a communist, but a dictator who was responsible for killing more people than anyone else excepting Mao Tse-tung.
Governor Ruiz has lost the confidence of the people he governs, to put it mildly. He should resign. The State of Oaxaca needs a Governor who can heal some wounds and redress some of the grievances. But he clings to power. People say the governorship is a road to wealth, and there's far too much money flying around the Governor's mansion to walk away from. Maybe so.
These troubles are terrible for the residents of Oaxaca, but they shouldn't be a deterrent to travelers. Outside of the zócalo and the stadium where the Guelaguetza is held, there's little sign of unrest. The city's churches, historical buildings and restaurants offer fascinating opportunities to explore and enjoy an intriguing destination. And the small villages nearby are inhabited by skilled artisans and some of the warmest, friendliest people you'll find anywhere.
Oh, they all hate the Governor—make no mistake about it. But that having been said, they are far more interested in enjoying life and raising their families than in the affairs of politicians and zealots.