What we're looking at here is a view of Ehecatepetl, Hill of the Wind, one of the names of the place where the ancient pyramid, El Tepozteco is located. The window through which we're viewing the mountain belongs to another religious building, Tepoztlán Convent.

This 16th-century convent was built by the Dominican Order. It was occupied by the builders for a couple hundred years after which it passed through a number of hands including Napoleon III's troops, and the military during the Mexican Revolution.

In 1939 it was placed in the care of INAH (National Institute of Anthropology and History). Subsequently it moldered for decades. Stunning frescos deteriorated—a loss of priceless cultural and historical images.

More recently, INAH has undertaken restoration projects at many historical sites. Work at Tepoztlán Convent began in 1993, and today, large parts of the buildings and its murals have been brought back to life.

Besides elaborate repeating patterns, some of the frescos depict scenes. In this nicho, we see a representation of Calvary, along with what looks like an open tomb and a sarcophagus.

The running patterns include motífs mysterious to me. Here two mermen-kings hold a tablet containing a vase of flowers inscribed "Maria". What is the symbology here?

Portraits of unidentified church figures, undoubtedly important ones, surround a doorway leading back to the convent entrance, where the only admission requirement is signing a guestbook.

Little remains of objects and structural details indicating people actually lived here. A pair of crude sinks are all that remain of the kitchens that once fed scores.

Maintenance, once neglected, seems now to be in good hands. Inside and out, the place shows the results of frequent cleanings.

A museum associated with the convent houses colonial-era artifacts, some of them quite good. A bookstore and gift shop occupies a room. Little of what is sold there is relevant to the convent, but many good books and art objects are for sale. I acquired a fine book of poems by Pablo Neruda.

INAH is making wonderful restorations of Mexico's historical sites. Emphasis seems to be on historical accuracy and authenticity. Mexico, once a country of dusty, overgrown ruins, is acquiring places that tell us much more about what life was like 500 years ago.